The last few day's have been a blast.
Take today for example:
Today I managed about two hours surfing and a few more body and boogie board surfing whilst mum and dad built sand castles on the beach with the kids.
Surfing - If you haven't I can't explain the feeling. Waves, powerful enough that given time will wear down headlands and reshape coastlines. Powerful enough to smash you teeth as they pile drive you arse through your neck if you fuck up. But awesome fun to play with dancing on a 6' length of pointy fiberglass bristling with blade like fins. Surfing is big, for many it is life. There are the finer points of wax selection, of etiquette, of leg rope selection - the culture and fashion, wave selection, fitness, your skill, pin tail or wedge. It goes on and on - if you are not initiated you will never find a way in.
Today I had one of the rarest surfing experiences - fantastic waves, a peaky steep right, all too myself. I had the joy of ride after ride of consistent waves in crystal clear water, of being underwater watching my reflection in the surface whilst duck diving under 1.5m curls.
My base of my ribs are sore from paddling and my arms are sore from dragging the board through the surf - but it is a good kind of sore.
After surfing and lunch on a picnic rug in the park, where the kids and I devoured a few hamburgers, with beetroot cauz were Aussie we got back and enjoyed the heat and suffered the view whilst savoring the beer mum dropped in my hand. Had a rest and then drove up the coast a ways to pick up Patrick - a 16 yo school kid who lives on the neighboring property from school in the next town. He took me fishing out on his boat. 6 magnificent fathead later we were heading back in only to be stopped by the dolphins trapped in the lake. (vid later).
Dinner was a sav blanc and fathead fillets in batter - so fresh they were quivering.
Raff is playing a fellow Spaniard in Melbourne whilst I'm sipping the last of the West Australian white.
How was your day?