The last few day's have been a blast.
Take today for example:
Today I managed about two hours surfing and a few more body and boogie board surfing whilst mum and dad built sand castles on the beach with the kids.
Surfing - If you haven't I can't explain the feeling. Waves, powerful enough that given time will wear down headlands and reshape coastlines. Powerful enough to smash you teeth as they pile drive you arse through your neck if you fuck up. But awesome fun to play with dancing on a 6' length of pointy fiberglass bristling with blade like fins. Surfing is big, for many it is life. There are the finer points of wax selection, of etiquette, of leg rope selection - the culture and fashion, wave selection, fitness, your skill, pin tail or wedge. It goes on and on - if you are not initiated you will never find a way in.
Today I had one of the rarest surfing experiences - fantastic waves, a peaky steep right, all too myself. I had the joy of ride after ride of consistent waves in crystal clear water, of being underwater watching my reflection in the surface whilst duck diving under 1.5m curls.
My base of my ribs are sore from paddling and my arms are sore from dragging the board through the surf - but it is a good kind of sore.
After surfing and lunch on a picnic rug in the park, where the kids and I devoured a few hamburgers, with beetroot cauz were Aussie we got back and enjoyed the heat and suffered the view whilst savoring the beer mum dropped in my hand. Had a rest and then drove up the coast a ways to pick up Patrick - a 16 yo school kid who lives on the neighboring property from school in the next town. He took me fishing out on his boat. 6 magnificent fathead later we were heading back in only to be stopped by the dolphins trapped in the lake. (vid later).
Dinner was a sav blanc and fathead fillets in batter - so fresh they were quivering.
Raff is playing a fellow Spaniard in Melbourne whilst I'm sipping the last of the West Australian white.
How was your day?
Friday, January 30, 2009
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7 comments:
I took the kids shopping for school clothes in 38 degree heat.
You, my friend, suck.
Today it's the usual IT geek work. But, I've been snorkeling in Waimea Bay, Oahu, Hawaii.
aaaaaargh
my sister is in sydney .. i get a blow-by-blow of life on the beach daily. It is killing me. I spent 2 years near Bateman's bay and i WANT TO GO BACK
I seriously loved reading that! My day has sucked hard today and it was awesome to read that there are awesome things happening in the sunshine on the other side of the world. Congrats on Annalise's first caught wave!
I try to have vacations like that in Florida, but I'm afraid I don't quite come close. The waves aren't big enough and I'm not skilled surfer, so I snorkel instead. I watch for the dolphins 'cause there's usually no sharks where there's dolphins, or so they tell me, and then I swim out after them. Our beaches are crowded and the waves are weak.
You're living in paradise.
Well, my day certainly wasn't as good as yours, by the sounds of it. It got to 44 degrees C in Melbourne, and the office a/c was barely working.
Though the beers my boss bought us at the pub after work made up for it, as did the quick family visit to the 'beach' - what can I say, we live in a pretty busy and built up bay.
Surfing? Love the idea of it: "if you are not initiated you will never find a way in" - just what I suspected, and was bothered about.
Glad your flatheads were fat, btw.
And still waiting to see the dolphin vid. Glad to be back in the throws of Emunctory.
Jen > I hope you bought then an ice cream
XL > A cubic litre of water weighs a tone. That guy looks like he is about to have 100 T or so of water massage his face into the coral.
Sweet > back to the grind now tho
Carnalis > A little north or a little south of the bay?
Laura > She still talks about it.
Memphis > Paradise with bull ants
Mark > ouch. Thats hot in a whole new way. It feels wrong to call the bay a 'beach'. Do you get out sailing?
The kids helped season and cook the fish :-)
Vid is coming - I need to buy a cable for hte camera.
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